Vilnius (Lithuania; population 590,000) is the southernmost and largest of the three Baltic capitals. It is also — in the opinion of most travellers who visit — the most underrated city in Northern Europe. Here is why it rewards a visit and what specifically to see.
Why Vilnius Is Different
Vilnius’s old town (UNESCO World Heritage since 1994) is the largest surviving Baroque old town in Northern Europe — covering 3.6 square kilometres with over 40 churches, palaces, courtyards, and medieval lanes. This scale distinguishes it from Tallinn (which is smaller and more intensely preserved but less architecturally varied) and Riga (which has more Art Nouveau but a less intact medieval core). The Baroque heritage: Vilnius was a major city of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth (the largest state in 16th–17th century Europe by area), which explains the enormous number of Baroque and Renaissance churches — Italian architects were imported to design them. The Jesuit church (St Casimir’s), the Cathedral, the Church of St Anne (a Gothic masterpiece that Napoleon reportedly wanted to take back to Paris), and the Gate of Dawn (Aušros Vartai, housing a revered Baroque icon of the Madonna) are all within walking distance. The contrasts: the old town also contains the Republic of Užupis — a self-declared independent republic (a Vilnius bohemian neighbourhood that declared independence on April Fools’ Day 1997 and has its own constitution and “ambassador”). A literal visit to the official noticeboard of the Užupis constitution (available in 23 languages, including one in Braille) is one of the most charming experiences in any European city.
What to Do
The Old Town: allow at least a full day. The Cathedral Square (Katedros aikštė) with its bell tower; Gediminas Avenue (the main boulevard); the Presidential Palace; the University (Vilnius University, founded 1579, one of the oldest in Northern Europe — its courtyard ensemble is beautiful and largely unknown to international visitors); and the network of courtyards (kiemais) that are the most distinctive feature of Vilnius — narrow entrances opening into unexpected interior spaces. Gediminas Tower: the medieval tower at the top of Gediminas Hill, accessible by cable car or on foot — gives the best view of the old town and the Neris river valley. The Hill of Crosses (Kryžių kalnas, approximately 12km from Šiauliai, a two-hour drive from Vilnius): not in Vilnius but worth the trip — a pilgrimage site that began in the 19th century and now has approximately 200,000 crosses. The Soviet Union bulldozed it twice; each time it was rebuilt. One of the most striking sites in the Baltic region. Trakai Castle (30km from Vilnius): a 14th-century island castle on Lake Galvė, reconstructed in the 20th century — the image most associated with Lithuania internationally. The Karaite community (Kenesa) in Trakai is one of the oldest Turkic Jewish communities in Europe.
Food and Drink in Lithuania
Cepelinai (цепеліни): the Lithuanian national dish — potato dumplings (zeppelins) filled with meat, mushrooms, or curd cheese, covered in sour cream and bacon bits. Dense and filling; one serving is typically sufficient for a meal. Šaltibarščiai (cold beet soup): the summer signature — cold borscht made with kefir (fermented milk), beetroot, cucumber, and dill, served with a hard-boiled egg and boiled potatoes. Shocking pink, cold, and delicious. The local beers: Svyturys and Utenos are the major Lithuanian breweries; craft beer has developed rapidly in Vilnius in recent years — the old town has a dense concentration of craft beer bars. Midus (mead): Lithuanian honey wine, produced since the medieval period and associated with the Grand Duchy era. Available in sweet and semi-sweet varieties. Price level: Vilnius is one of the cheapest EU capitals for visitors — a meal in a good restaurant costs €15–25 per person; a pint of local beer is €3–4. The accommodation is correspondingly affordable.
