Switzerland is among the most expensive countries to visit in the world, but also among the most spectacular. The Swiss Alps, Swiss train system, and Swiss cities each represent a pinnacle of what they are — the mountains most dramatic, the trains most punctual and scenic, the cities most liveable. Here is how to see the best of it without spending entirely irrationally.
Zermatt and the Matterhorn
Zermatt (population 5,800; altitude 1,620m) is the most famous ski and hiking resort in Switzerland and one of the most recognisable locations in the Alps — because the Matterhorn (4,478m), the pyramid-shaped peak that is the postcard image of Switzerland, rises directly above the town. Getting there: Zermatt is car-free — vehicles stop at Täsch, and the Mattertal train brings you into the village. This is part of why Zermatt has remained relatively unpolluted and photogenic. The Matterhorn Glacier Paradise: the cable car system reaches 3,883m — one of the highest cable car stations in the world, with views of 14 four-thousanders (4,000m+ peaks) on clear days. The glacier ski area is open year-round (July–August for summer skiing). The Gornergrat Railway (the highest open-air railway in Switzerland, to 3,089m): one of the most scenic train rides in the world — views of the Monte Rosa massif (the second highest point in the Alps after Mont Blanc) and the Gorner Glacier. In winter, the ski area has 360km of pistes connected to the Italian side (Cervinia) through a tunnel. The Five Lakes Trail (Fünfseenweg): the most famous hiking trail around Zermatt — 5 lakes each reflecting the Matterhorn on a clear day. Stellisee has the most famous reflection. Walkable in 3–4 hours.
Swiss Alpine Train Routes
Switzerland has the most spectacular train network in the world, with multiple panoramic routes that are marketed as destinations in themselves. The Glacier Express (St Moritz to Zermatt, 8 hours): the most famous alpine train ride — marketed as “the slowest express in the world,” it crosses 291 bridges and 91 tunnels through the Alps. Panoramic windows. Reservation required; premium supplement for restaurant car. The Bernina Express (St Moritz to Lugano or Tirano, 4 hours for the main crossing): the highest railway line in the Alps without a rack-and-pinion — the Bernina Pass (2,256m) is crossed at speed. The viaduct at Brusio (a spiral viaduct, unique in the world) is one of the most photographed railway structures in Europe. UNESCO World Heritage listed (together with the Albula Railway). The Golden Pass (Montreux to Lucerne or Interlaken, 3 hours): through the Bernese Oberland — views of Lake Brienz and Lake Thun, Interlaken between two lakes, and the approach to Lucerne. The GoldenPass Express runs through without changing trains. The Rigi (above Lucerne, 1,798m): accessible from Weggis or Vitznau by rack railway, or from Arth-Goldau — the “Queen of the Mountains” from whose summit you can see 13 different lakes on clear days and the Alps from Säntis to Mont Blanc.
Practical Switzerland
Cost: Switzerland is approximately 40–60% more expensive than Germany or Austria. A budget day (hostel, self-catering, scenic trains): CHF 100–150/person. A mid-range day (hotel, restaurant lunch and dinner, cable car): CHF 250–400/person. The Swiss Travel Pass: covers all public transport (trains, buses, boats, urban transport) + free or discounted entry to 500+ museums. Available in 3/4/6/8/15 day versions. The 8-day pass costs approximately CHF 620 in second class. If you are using public transport extensively (and you should), the pass is almost always worthwhile. Currency: Swiss Franc (CHF). Hotels and restaurants accept Euros, but get change in CHF. Credit cards widely accepted. Language: German (65%), French (23%), Italian (8%), Romansh (1%). Each region uses its language in daily life — the linguistic border (Röstigraben — “Rösti ditch”) between German and French Switzerland is one of Europe’s more distinct cultural divides. The Rösti ditch is named after the Swiss German-speaking tradition of eating Rösti (potato rösti) that the French-speaking Swiss largely did not share. Swiss German: what Swiss German speakers actually speak in everyday life is a dialect (Schweizerdeutsch) that is sufficiently different from standard German (Hochdeutsch) that German speakers from Germany often cannot understand it. TV and formal contexts use standard German.
