Ghent is Belgium’s third-largest city and its most complete medieval centre — yet it draws perhaps one-tenth the tourist volume of Bruges, which has significantly less to show. Here is an honest account of why Ghent works as a destination.
What Ghent Actually Is
Ghent was one of medieval Europe’s largest cities — in the 14th century, larger than London. Its wealth came from the Flemish cloth trade, and what it bought was architecture: the Graslei and Korenlei (two adjacent medieval quays, still intact, lined with guild houses from the 12th–17th centuries), Sint-Baafskathedraal (St Bavo’s Cathedral, housing the van Eyck brothers’ Ghent Altarpiece — the most important painting in Belgium by significant margin), the Gravensteen castle in the middle of the city, and a canal network that makes the city navigable by boat. All of this is compact and walkable in a way that Bruges, despite being smaller, actually is not.
The Ghent Altarpiece
The Ghent Altarpiece (Adoration of the Mystic Lamb), painted by Hubert and Jan van Eyck and completed in 1432, is a genuine case of a single work that merits a trip. It is not a large painting by the standards of later Baroque work — but the technical achievement (the individual portraiture, the depth of space in the Adoration panel, the colour of the 12 panels) was centuries ahead of contemporary work. It was stolen multiple times in its history, including by the Nazis; the 2023 restored version is exhibited in a purpose-built pavilion inside the cathedral, with excellent explanatory material. Entry: €18 adults.
The Food Scene
Ghent has an unusually strong vegetarian food culture for a Belgian city — “Vegetarian Thursday” (Donderdag Veggiedag) started in Ghent in 2009 and made the city an unlikely destination for plant-based food. Beyond this, the Ghent food scene is strong: Vrijdagmarkt (Friday Market square) has restaurants and cafés with traditional Belgian food; the student neighbourhood around Overpoort street offers affordable options; the Dok Noord redevelopment area has several acclaimed modern restaurants. Waterzooi (a Ghent cream stew with chicken or fish) is the local speciality.
Practical Notes
Ghent is 30 minutes from Brussels by IC train (€11 each way), making it an easy day trip from the capital. From Bruges: 25 minutes by train. Best visited weekdays — weekend crowds have grown significantly. The Stam city museum gives the best context for the medieval history before exploring the centre. Accommodation: cheaper than Brussels and Bruges; many visitors use it as a base for both.
