Athens (population 3.1 million in the metropolitan area) is one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities and the birthplace of Western democracy, philosophy, and theatrical tradition. The Acropolis — the ancient citadel visible from almost every point in the city — is the most important ancient monument in the Western world. But Athens is also a living, contemporary city that is frequently underestimated by visitors who stay only long enough to see the ancient sites.
The Acropolis and Ancient Sites
The Acropolis: the limestone hill (156m) at the centre of Athens has been continuously occupied since the Neolithic period. The Classical-era monuments (5th century BC) that survive are among the most studied buildings in the history of architecture. The Parthenon (447–432 BC): dedicated to Athena Parthenos (Athena the Virgin) — the city’s patron goddess. Designed by Iktinos and Kallikrates under the supervision of Phidias, who also sculpted the gold-and-ivory cult statue inside (destroyed — only copies survive). The visual refinements in the Parthenon are extraordinary: the columns lean slightly inward; the stylobate (floor) curves upward slightly at the centre; the columns are slightly thicker in the middle (entasis) — all optical corrections to prevent the straight-line illusions of sag and taper that the human eye creates when looking at large structures. The Acropolis Museum (2009, designed by Bernard Tschumi): one of the finest new museums in Europe — built on the south slope of the Acropolis, with the Parthenon visible through the glass roof as you view the friezes. The original frieze sculptures remaining in Athens are displayed at eye level for the first time; the gap in the display where the Elgin Marbles (now in the British Museum) would go is deliberately visible. The Ancient Agora: the commercial and civic heart of ancient Athens — where Socrates taught, where Athenian democracy was practised, and where the Stoa of Attalos (reconstructed 1953–56) now houses an important archaeological museum. The Temple of Hephaestus (449 BC), overlooking the Agora, is the best-preserved ancient temple in Greece (more complete than the Parthenon). Kerameikos: the ancient Athenian cemetery, with grave monuments and the Pompeion (used for processions), on the northwest edge of the old city. One of the most atmospheric archaeological sites in Athens — far fewer visitors than the Acropolis.
Modern Athens
The neighbourhoods: Monastiraki (flea market, street food, the view of the Acropolis from the Monastiraki square — the most photographed urban Acropolis view); Psyrri (formerly the artisan district, now bars and restaurants — the most active nightlife neighbourhood); Exarcheia (student and anarchist neighbourhood, bookshops, graffiti, informal atmosphere); Kolonaki (upmarket residential district on the slopes of Lykavittos hill — the National Gallery, galleries, expensive cafés); Plaka (the old neighbourhood under the Acropolis — very touristy, but the Byzantine churches and Ottoman-era buildings mixed with Classical-era ruins make it genuinely interesting after dark when visitors thin out). Food: Greek food in Athens is not the tourist-restaurant version of souvlaki and moussaka (though both are fine). The mezedes culture — small plates of food shared with drinks — is central: taramasalata (cured roe dip), tzatziki, gigantes (giant beans in tomato), dakos (Cretan rusk with tomato and feta), fava (split pea puree from Santorini), grilled octopus. The Central Market (Varvakios Agora): the main covered food market, open from 4am — one of the most vivid market experiences in Southern Europe. The Athens street food: loukoumades (honey doughnuts), souvlaki from a street grill, koulouri (sesame bread rings sold from carts).
