Most first-time visitors to Spain go to Barcelona and Madrid. Both deserve their reputations. But after those two cities, the country opens up considerably — and in some ways the second-tier cities are more interesting.
Seville (Sevilla)
Seville is the capital of Andalusia and the city most associated with archetypes of Spanish culture: flamenco, bullfighting, Holy Week (Semana Santa) processions, tapas in their original form, and Arab-influenced architecture from the Moorish period (8th–15th century). The Alcázar (UNESCO, still used as a royal residence), the Giralda tower, and the Gothic Cathedral (largest Gothic church in the world) form the historic centre. The neighbourhood to spend time in: Triana (across the Guadalquivir river), historically the neighbourhood of gitanos and flamenco artists, now gentrifying but still with genuine culture. Best time: April Feria de Abril festival or late March Semana Santa. Avoid July–August (45°C heat, empty of locals). Spring and autumn are ideal.
Valencia
Valencia is Spain’s third-largest city and has a different character from Barcelona and Madrid: more relaxed, less touristy (relatively), with serious food culture. Valencia invented paella — the original is made with rabbit, chicken, green beans, and white beans, cooked over orange wood, not the seafood version found internationally. The Mercado Central (1928 modernist market, best in Spain) and the surrounding Barrio del Carmen (historic old town with medieval gates) are the core. The Turia riverbed, converted to a 9km urban park after the 1957 flood, is one of Europe’s best examples of urban reclamation. The Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias (Calatrava architecture complex) divides opinion locally but is photographically spectacular.
Bilbao
Bilbao is the industrial-capital-turned-cultural-city story of Europe — the Guggenheim Bilbao (1997, Frank Gehry) catalysed the transformation of a declining industrial port into a design-forward cultural destination. The Guggenheim alone justifies a visit: the titanium building changes character in different light conditions, and the permanent collection is substantial. Beyond the museum: the Casco Viejo (old town) and the Siete Calles (seven streets) area for pintxos (Basque tapas — the best bar food in Spain, arguably in Europe), the Mercado de la Ribera (largest covered market in Europe by floor area), and day trips to the Basque coast (San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, the island monastery that appeared in Game of Thrones).
San Sebastián (Donostia)
San Sebastián has more Michelin stars per capita than any city in the world outside of Kyoto. The food is the primary reason to go. The old town (Parte Vieja) bar-to-bar pintxos crawl — picking up one or two items at each bar — is one of the most enjoyable eating experiences in Europe. The serious restaurants: Arzak (3 Michelin stars, 50 years old, Juan Mari and Elena Arzak), Mugaritz (2 stars, consistently in World’s 50 Best), Akelarre (3 stars, views over the Bay of Biscay). For non-restaurant food: La Bretxa market, anchovy in oil from Getaria fishing boats, and Idiazabal cheese from the inland Basque farms. The city is also physically beautiful: La Concha beach (one of Europe’s best urban beaches) in a protected bay.
