The izakaya (居酒屋, literally “stay-sake-shop”) is the dominant mode of evening dining and drinking in Japan — not the formal kaiseki or sushi restaurant, but the casual, convivial gathering place where coworkers decompress after work, friends meet, and the food is designed to accompany drinks. Here is what the izakaya culture is and what to order.
What an Izakaya Is
The izakaya originated in the Edo period as sake shops that allowed customers to drink on the premises; over time they added food to keep customers drinking longer. The modern izakaya is a hybrid between a pub and a restaurant — you drink and eat simultaneously rather than finishing a meal before moving to a bar. The social function: in Japan’s work culture, the nomikai (drinking gathering) at an izakaya is an important social ritual — companies hold them for new employees, departing colleagues, and project completions. They are more egalitarian than restaurant dining — everyone shares from the same dishes in the centre of the table. The format: you typically sit in a booth or at a low table; you are given oshibori (hot towels) and otōshī (a small starter you did not order but are charged for — a cover charge in food form, typically ¥300–500); you order drinks first, then food continuously throughout the evening. Toriaezu biiru (とりあえずビール, “beer for now”) is the standard first order while everyone decides what they want. The price: izakayas are moderately priced — expect ¥2,500–5,000 per person for food and drink including multiple rounds. The nomihodai/tabehodai (all-you-can-drink/eat) option exists in many izakayas at ¥1,500–2,500 for 90–120 minutes of unlimited drinks.
What to Order
Yakitori (焼き鳥): chicken on skewers, grilled over charcoal. Standard options: momo (thigh, the default, slightly fatty and juicy), negima (thigh with spring onion alternating), tsukune (chicken meatball, often with a raw egg yolk for dipping), kawa (skin, fatty and crispy), reba (liver, should be slightly pink inside), hāto (heart, chewy). Order yakitori in sets of two or four. The seasoning choice is tare (sweet soy sauce glaze) or shio (salt) — shio lets you taste the chicken more clearly. Karaage (唐揚げ): Japanese fried chicken — marinated in soy, ginger, and garlic, fried twice for crispiness. Served with mayonnaise and lemon. One of the most satisfying things in Japanese cuisine. Edamame (枝豆): salted soybeans — the izakaya snack par excellence, eaten while waiting for other food. Gyoza (餃子): pan-fried dumplings, served with a soy-rice vinegar-chilli oil dipping sauce. Agedashi tofu (揚げ出し豆腐): lightly battered and fried tofu in a dashi broth with grated radish and ginger. Sashimi moriawase (刺身盛り合わせ): mixed sashimi platter — quality varies significantly by izakaya. Hiyayakko (冷奶豆腐): cold tofu with ginger, soy, and bonito flakes — a refreshing contrast to fried items. Tamagoyaki (玉子焼き): sweet rolled omelette, the standard side dish at most izakayas.
Drinking at an Izakaya
Nama biiru (生ビール, draft beer): Sapporo, Asahi, Kirin, or Suntory — Japanese lager at its best, served very cold. Chūhai (酎ハイ): shochu (distilled spirit) with soda and fruit flavour — the popular and affordable alternative to beer. Lemon sour (レモンサワー) is the most popular variety. Shochu (焼酎): Japan’s distilled spirit — made from barley (mugi), sweet potato (imo), rice (kome), or brown sugar (kokuto). Typically drunk on the rocks or with water. Lower calorie and higher alcohol than sake. Highball (ハイボール): whisky (usually Suntory Toki or Kakubin) with soda water — has become Japan’s dominant way of drinking whisky, popular because it’s refreshing and pairs well with food. Umeshu (梅酒): plum wine — popular as a first drink, on the rocks or with soda, particularly popular with women and non-sake drinkers.
