Alsace is a French region — but its history of alternating between French and German sovereignty (German 1871–1918, French before and after) has produced a culture, architecture, and food that is distinctly Franco-German in character. From Freiburg, Strasbourg is 45 minutes by train. From Karlsruhe or Stuttgart, slightly longer. This makes Alsace one of Germany’s most distinctive close neighbours.
Strasbourg
Strasbourg is Alsace’s capital and one of France’s most beautiful cities. The Grande Île (historic island centre, UNESCO World Heritage) has a cathedral of extraordinary Gothic height (142m spire — viewable from a panoramic terrace), the medieval Petite France district with half-timbered houses over canals, and the Palais Rohan (Baroque, housing three museums). Strasbourg is also the seat of the European Parliament and the Council of Europe — the city takes its role as a European capital seriously and the multilingual, cosmopolitan character shows.
Alsatian Food
Alsatian cuisine is the delicious product of Franco-German food culture fusion. Choucroute garnie (sauerkraut with various pork products — from the German Sauerkraut tradition but prepared with French refinement), Flammekueche (tarte flambée — thin crispy base, crème fraîche, lardons, onion — essentially a French Alsatian pizza), Baeckeoffe (meat and potato casserole slow-cooked in white wine), and Munster cheese (strong-smelling, creamy Alsatian cheese). Alsatian wine (Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris) is served in tall green glasses and accompanies food perfectly.
The Alsatian Wine Route
The Route des Vins d’Alsace (Wine Route) runs 170km from Marlenheim to Thann through villages with concentrated half-timbered architecture and wine estates offering tastings. Riquewihr, Kaysersberg (Albert Schweitzer’s birthplace), and Colmar (1.5 hours from Freiburg) are the most picturesque stops. Driving the route in spring (vines in blossom) or harvest (October) is the definitive Alsace experience.
