Under the “China Chic” (Guochao) wave, TCM beauty has become the core differentiation strategy for Chinese domestic skincare brands competing against Western giants. China’s functional skincare market exceeded 150 billion RMB in 2023, with products containing TCM ingredients taking a continuously growing share. Domestic brands including Proya, Winona, and Bloomage Biotech have established competitive positions in antioxidation, brightening, and anti-inflammatory repair sub-tracks using “TCM active ingredients + modern formulation science.”
## Star TCM Skincare Ingredients
**Ginseng (Panax Ginseng Extract)**: Ginsenoside Rg1 has been shown in vitro to promote skin collagen synthesis, with antioxidant and anti-glycation activity; ginseng root extract has been approved for cosmetic use by multiple international regulatory agencies. Estée Lauder, SK-II, and Whoo all have ginseng series.
**Centella Asiatica (CICA)**: active compounds Asiaticoside and Madecassoside have potent anti-inflammatory and wound-healing effects with multiple in vivo RCT evidence. CICA is widely recommended by international dermatologists for sensitive skin and repair products — the most successful “traditional herb → modern functional ingredient” conversion of the past five years.
**Angelica Dahurica (Bai Zhi)**: traditionally used for brightening; modern research shows its extracts inhibit tyrosinase activity (the key enzyme in melanin production), but photosensitivity (furanocoumarin content) is a potential safety concern requiring strict control.
**Angelica Sinensis (Dang Gui)**: blood-activating ingredients; Angelica sinensis extract has preliminary evidence for promoting skin microcirculation and improving dullness, but penetration and stability are formulation challenges.
## The Rise of Domestic Skincare Brands
From 2020-2025, Chinese domestic skincare brands strongly challenged Western brands in e-commerce channels: Proya (known for its “hero product strategy” — morning Vitamin C, evening retinol), Winona (targeting sensitive skin with hospital channel endorsement), Kefu Mei (collagen track), and Quadev (synthetic biology-based ergothioneine raw material) all reached billions to tens of billions in revenue.
See [TCM Modernization Overview](https://sunqi.org/tcm-modernization-overview-en/) and [Synthetic Biology and Biomanufacturing](https://sunqi.org/synthetic-biology-overview-en/).
